Ahh, what a town. The people there are angels, open-armed and eager. No lack of mountain music to be made here! From Stringbean's Cafe (live jamming every Tuesday) to Barr's Fiddle Shop (live jamming every other customer), it's a fantastic place to catch some music or meet some musicians. And it's within a half hour drive from every other big event in the area - you could literally see music every night!
And how on Earth did I get here, I'm supposed to be in New Jersey? Well, good things happen when you drive Southwest to avoid Hurricane Hannah. I wouldn't change a thing. To hell with New Jersey. I owe y'all a new map
So, let's take a closer look:
Blue Ridge Mountain Parkway Music Center
That's a mouthful! I'd heard about this from the start, and thank goodness I went to check it out. Not only a museum, showcasing the best of Old Time Mountain Music, this venue actually hires musicians to play the same, every day from 10:30-4:00! With rocking chairs set out for interested visitors, this was a wonderful place to take a break - and to hear the haps on all the music in the surrounding area. These were the kind folk who sent me to Stringbeans in Galax, and Barr's Fiddle Shop to mend my cracking fiddle-face. I also received a two-minute dobro/dulcimer lesson from a friendly ranger inside, picked up Ralph Stanley & the Clinchmountain Sweethearts CD, and spent a good hour reading about The Hillbillies, the Carter Family, The Stanley Brothers and more. PLUS, they had an old Sears-Roebuck issued guitar on the wall that belonged to one of the Hillbillies. Good stuff, good stuff.
Stringbean's CafeI counted possibly 6 or
7 antique stores on Main Street, Galax; this one can be set apart
by its delicious coffees (mmm, frozen mocha), pie-by-the-slice (mmm, apple), and the old time mountain music played from every corner on Tuesday nights. I'm not kidding, there was a separate group playing a separate song in three different corners of the store. It's a pretty big store. The harmonies of the group I observed were unmatched - some Father/Son mixture had something to do with that, I'm sure. Get up and dance if you want to, or sit down and play your hand at rummy with the old folks. What a great retirement - tea, cards, AND music all around! I wish I'd had my camera there on Tuesday...
George's "Cones & Coffee"
What a great guy, this George fellow, and what a great little shop. Delicious foods and bakery items (I settled on a scrumptious orange/cranberry muffin and cookies-and-cream flavored frozen coffee), and an antique store to boot! A great place to sip and read. And let's all wish George some "good luck!" on his Hallelujah diet! And no bananas, God help you if you pester George with a banana.
Being the oh-so-studious and attentive planner that I am, my reading of choice in this cafe was the City of Galax Comprehensive Plan. No light reading, to be sure... The city is currently undergoing some "revitalization" (I know how that is), and I hope to keep up as much as possible. You know it's a lovely town when you actually start to give-a-damn!
Barr's Fiddle ShopHow many times have you found yourself sitting in a music shop for 7 hours, and then come back the next day for more? This is the hub of town, as I see it, and the door is always swinging open. I met several awesome people here, not the least of which was one Stevie Barr, owner, banjo player, total angel. He grew up in the store, bought it from his father, and continues the tradition of bringing music and musical instruments to the residents and visitors of Galax. (Remind anyone of the Ralphs?) Stevie is "kind of a big deal," sort of like a local legend or idol. The sonofagun played before the Queen in Edinburgh! I love Edinburgh! And (tell me if I'm wrong, Steve), at 13, played with Earl Scruggs, played the inaugural ceremony for the new governor of Virginia, played all over Europe, etc. etc.
He's also on the in-ter-net. Check out his band "No Speed Limit." These guys (and gals) gots skills.
Stevie sold me a wonderful little beater guitar, and I'm getting pretty good at the G chord. That's right, watch out. Hopefully this will spur some song-writing in me - I've got a pretty good amount of fiddle-fodder to formulate. Plus I promised I'd post "Bluegrass Lullaby" when I learned it.
New River Campground
Now, not everything happens in Galax (except the Fiddler's convention - last weekend in August - 2009, I'm totally there). Some good stuff happens in Independence, VA; or was it Sparta, NC? For all my days gallivanting around Galax and surrounding towns, I spent the most comfortable nights at the New River Campground, right on the line of Virginia and North Carolina. Well, I registered in Virginia, but I slept in North Carolina. Only a few feet away from the New River ("Oldest River in America," whatever that means...)! It was gorgeous! The campground offers tubing, kayaking and canoing, which one day I will take advantage of! The lady behind the counter was the sweetest gem I've met on this trip, and the grounds were immaculate, secure, and restful. Even for a girl sleeping in her car! (yes, it rains in Galax).
